About a decade ago, Noel Brockett got an education in a subject he never thought he’d study: How to give a toast.
It turns out, there鈥檚 a lot more to it than raising a glass and calling out 鈥渃heers鈥� 鈥� especially for a tamada, or toastmaster responsible for leading traditional Georgian feasts, also known as supras.
鈥淚t鈥檚 not as easy as it may look,鈥� Brockett said.
That鈥檚 because the tamada is the glue that holds the meal together. Each supra is structured around a handful of standard toasts shared throughout the dinner 鈥� there鈥檚 always a toast to God, a toast to those who have departed and a toast to women. Then, several more are added in depending on the celebration (formal supras, such as weddings, have upward of 30 toasts) and the conversation at the table.
鈥淎 good toast has to have some thought behind it. You鈥檙e going to have some part that鈥檚 scripted, but the goal of tradition is to live it,鈥� said Brockett, who learned the art of toasting from his Georgian father-in-law. 鈥淚t鈥檚 [about] connecting the universal to the particular.鈥�
These days, Brockett is showing off his tamada skills at monthly supras hosted at , a Georgian restaurant located in D.C.鈥檚 Shaw neighborhood.
Owners Jonathan and Laura Nelms opened Supra in 2017 after returning to D.C. from Moscow, where he worked as a partner for the law firm Baker McKenzie. Their motive was twofold: They missed the abundance of Georgian cuisine that was once at their fingertips.
鈥淟iving is Moscow, there are Georgian restaurants on every corner. We liken it to Mexican or Italian food here,鈥� Jonathan said.
They also saw room for a Georgian restaurant in D.C.鈥檚 growing and diverse dining scene.
What is Georgian food, exactly? Jonathan described the cuisine as 鈥渦nique,鈥� and one that鈥檚 made up of a blend of familiar flavors, rather than a few defining ingredients.
鈥淚 think the one-sentence explanation we often give is that it鈥檚 a little combination of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern,鈥� he said.
Perhaps most popular dish, at least at Supra, is khachapuri, a cheese-filled bread that’s topped with an egg. Kebabs, salads, vegetable p芒t茅s and soup dumplings, or khinkali, are also common.
鈥淕eorgia鈥檚 on the western edge of the Silk Road, so they have some things connecting them to Asia, even though it鈥檚 not a particularly Asian culture,鈥� Jonathan said.
All of these dishes, plus plenty of Georgian wine, make it to the table at Supra鈥檚 monthly family-style feasts. Beyond food, the Nelms want to give local diners at these events a taste of the traditions they experienced in Georgia. On their fifth wedding anniversary, the couple attended a supra in Kazbegi and dined with strangers. The chacha (or Georgian grappa) was flowing, and so were the speeches from the table鈥檚 tamada.
鈥淚t was so moving because we didn鈥檛 know these people at all, but it was very heartfelt and sincere in the way that they were expressing themselves,鈥� Laura said.
Johnathan added, “It鈥檚 a real celebration of this core of Georgian culture, which is the food, the wine and the toasting, but also all the emotions and love of hospitality and love of guests.”聽
to the supras at Supra are $125, and include all food, wine, taxes and tip. Be sure to free up some room in your stomach 鈥� and in your schedule. The dinners last around three hours.
