91欧美激情

At Peter Chang鈥檚 new Northern Virginia restaurant, women are the focus

The motivation behind chef Peter Chang鈥檚 newest restaurant is pretty simple: It all comes down to a plate of pan-fried tofu and bean sprouts 鈥 a dish Peter鈥檚 mother made when he was a young boy growing up in Hubei, China.

鈥淚n his memory, nothing tastes better than that 鈥 from an emotional point of view, from a flavors point of view, from a memory point of view,鈥 said Peter鈥檚 daughter Lydia Chang, who runs business development for the family鈥檚 restaurant group.

That鈥檚 why it was the first item on the menu at Peter鈥檚 new Fairfax, Virginia, outpost, .

Peter Chang has become somewhat of a household name in the D.C. area. With more than 10 restaurants throughout Maryland and Virginia, his Szechuan-style cooking has earned him and a (they call themselves Changians). But his latest restaurant pays homage to the behind-the-scenes influences in his culinary career: the women in his family and the meals they cook at home.

The green pepper pickled mustard pork at Mama Chang in Fairfax, Virginia. (Courtesy Rey Lopez)

鈥淧eople constantly ask: 鈥楥hef, what do you like to eat the most?鈥 And he always says, 鈥楬ome-cooked meals,鈥欌 explained Lydia, who helped to translate Peter鈥檚 responses throughout the interview.

鈥淭his is actually what we have in China. Chinese food in America was misunderstood for a long time 鈥 we just want to show you what鈥檚 a proper meal.鈥

Unlike the modern plates and presentations the chef offers at his Bethesda restaurant, Q by Peter Chang, the focus at Mama Chang is on 鈥渘othing more but flavors and tastes.鈥 Most of the recipes have been in the Chang family for generations, Lydia said.

The sesame shaobing at Mama Chang in Fairfax, Virginia. (Courtesy Rey Lopez)

Along with the pan-fried tofu from Peter鈥檚 mother is a soy-braised beef stew 鈥 a childhood favorite of Lydia鈥檚 鈥 and green pepper pickled mustard pork.

Lisa Chang 鈥 Peter鈥檚 wife who is also a chef and 鈥渢he genius behind Peter Chang restaurant group,鈥 according to Lydia 鈥 said the suanla rice noodle with pickled vegetables, chili oil and vinegar is her No. 1. It鈥檚 also a meal Lydia remembers making with her mom when she had a day off and wanted to rest at home.

鈥淎nd this is something that she can easily throw on with just simple ingredients,鈥 Lydia said. 鈥淎s simple as it sounds, and just with some pre-made rice noodles, she always nails it.鈥

Chinese friends and customers have even told Lydia that Lisa鈥檚 suanla rice noodles bring them to tears 鈥渂ecause it reminds them so much of what they had growing up.鈥

The nearly 8,000-square-foot restaurant also features a curated wine program to pair with the often spicy dishes. And Changians fear not: Lisa鈥檚 famous scallion bubble pancakes are on the menu at Mama Chang.

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